How to do a brake job

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How to do a brake job

Post  jshertx on Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:22 pm

I freakin hate squeaky or noisy brakes! My brakes started talking on Saturday, and I had that goat on jackstands Sunday Mad The following is my experience and tips on how to make this a smooth process:

You will need:
15 mm and 19mm open end wrenches
regular metal hammer
rubber mallet
PB Blaster/WD 40
rags
21mm socket
24" breaker bar
long 21mm box end or wratchet wrench (rear brakes)
wire to hang brake carriages
lug nut wrench
6+ inch C clamp
jack stands
blue threadlocker
carriage pin lube
carriage pin boots (if neededl)
carriage pin bolts (if needed)
carriage pin (if needed)
Anti rattle clips (if needed, sold as brake hardware kit at parts store)
Good quality set of brake pads. I would recommend a set of ceramic pads at the least for daily driving.

Get your goat in the air on jackstands. Remove wheels.

Take the C clamp and compress slowly on the brake pads to push the pistons back in their seats. Place the C clamp on a flat area on the back of the carriage and the compress screw side against the brake pad. DO THIS SLOWLY OR YOU WILL FORCE BRAKE FLUID OUT OF THE RESERVOIR! On the back top side of the carriage, there are two bolts. The bolt holds the carriage to the cradle. Place the 15mm wrench on the bolt and the 19mm on the carriage pin to keep it from turning while you loosen the bolt. If you confused, turn the bolt with 15mm wrench and you will see what I mean. Once this is done, lift the carriage up and secure with some wire out of the way. DO NOT LET THE CARRIAGE HANG BY THE BRAKE LINE!

Now spray some PB Blaster/WD-40 on the lug bolt openings and around where the rotor seats on the spindle...future peace of mind. Next, turn your front wheels toward the side your working on. Then take your breaker bar and 21mm socket to break the cradle free. If doing the rear brakes, there are a couple of ways to do this. I would use a long 21mm box end wrench or you can disconnect the shock and use the breaker bar. The carriage pins are located on each end. These must be pulled out, cleaned, and lubed. The lube is sold at all parts stores up by the counter in most cases. DO FORGET TO CLEAN AND LUBE THESES PINS! The carriage must travel to wear pads evenly, and if the pins cease up your pads will wear out quick. If the bolts and pins are corroded, replace them. If the boots are torn, replace them. You can get them from Advance Auto and Auto Zone.

Now the fun part, breaking rotors free from spindle pale Take the regular hammer and whack a few times on the flat surface between each lug bolt. Take the rubber mallet and whack the rotor from the back. Yes, lay yo ass on the ground and whack it! Turn the rotor and whack again...repeat until you feel it give, and then lightly tap until you can remove by hand. If you want to do this job right, once you get all the rotors off, take them to O'reilly and get them turned. NOTE: IF YOU'VE HAD SEVERAL BRAKE JOBS DONE ON THE SAME ROTORS, YOU MAY NEED TO ORDER NEW ONES. DO THIS FIRST BECAUSE YOU WON'T FIND GTO ROTORS IN STOCK ANYWHERE! Once you get the rotors back, clean them with soap and water, and dry them off.

The assembly is pretty much the reverse of the tear down. I would suggest that when you get the rotor on the spindle that you secure if with a few lug nuts to keep it in place during assembly. Keep the rotors and pads clean during assembly. Place a dab of blue threadlocker on the carriage pin bolts when you reinstall them. The brake pad manufacturer recommends that you burnish your pads to the rotors by making 30 stops from 30 miles per hour and wait 20 seconds between each stop. I didn't have the pacience for this crap so I did it like 10 times. My brakes are great with no noise! cheers


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jshertx

Posts : 134
Join date : 2011-03-21
Age : 43
Location : Midland, Tx

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